Standing tall on a Jerusalem hillside overlooking the Old City, Mishkenot Shaananim, meaning “Peaceful Dwellings” in Hebrew, offers a captivating journey through time. Built in the 19th century as the first Jewish neighborhood outside the city walls, it’s one of the places where the city’s modern history begins to unfolds.

Financed by philanthropist Sir Moses Montefiore, the neighborhood’s creation wasn’t without its hurdles. Initially intended as a hospital, it became an almshouse due to residents’ anxieties about living beyond the protected walls. To incentivize people to move in, Montefiore even built a towering windmill, providing both flour and additional income. The very architecture echoed Jerusalem’s past, with the Mishkenot Shaananim buildings featuring crenelated roofs that mirrored the Old City walls.

The 20th century brought its share of challenges. The neighborhood merged with another Jewish community, Yemin Moshe, but later found itself in a precarious situation during the 1948 war. Abandoned and used as a slum, Mishkenot Shaananim awaited its revival.

Thankfully, after the Six-Day War in 1967, the Israeli government meticulously restored the neighborhood. Today, a walk through Mishkenot Shaananim is a wonderful and tranquil experience. The iconic Montefiore Windmill, now a museum, stands proudly as a symbol of the area’s resilience. One of the original almshouses now houses the Jerusalem Music Center, while the other has been transformed into a prestigious guesthouse for visiting artists and intellectuals. The narrow cobbled streets are lined with beautifully restored houses, many now vibrant art galleries. Lush gardens and a peaceful atmosphere complete the picture, making Mishkenot Shaananim a treasure trove of history and culture.